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Wednesday / 2026-06-24

Kyoto In Volcano Mode

A sunrise shrine hike, a wrong-direction bus, Sarah nearly introducing herself to a pole, and the discovery that every trip needs a setting called volcano mode.

FamilyMart rice balls and coffee, Fushimi Inari in an hour, wrong-direction bus recovery, e-bike volcano mode, Sarah almost running into a pole, Genko-an windows and blood ceiling, Nabura ramen, Nintendo Store Kyoto, chicken skins, and karaoke.

Ashley standing among orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari.
Ashley in the torii gates, giving the camera what it came for.

Everyone woke up at 5:00 AM so the group could leave the Kyoto Granbell Hotel at 5:30.

Before the hike, the group stopped at FamilyMart and picked up rice balls, and of course coffee for Ashley and Zach.

Fushimi Inari started at 6:00 AM and the loop was finished in an hour. The schedule had looked tight before the e-bike tour, but the group crushed it.

The gates at Fushimi Inari were one of Sarah's trip highlights, along with a separate, quieter zen garden stop. Range matters.

From the hike to the e-bike spot, the route involved two trains and then a bus going the wrong direction. Everyone got off, switched to a taxi, and still made it on time.

The e-bike guide was helpful, and also a tad cringy in that tour-guide way where enthusiasm clearly gets issued a helmet.

On the e-bike tour, the power settings were in Japanese. The highest setting had a character that looked like a volcano, so it became volcano mode. It became shorthand for sending it. Sarah also almost ran into a pole, which felt like Kyoto making sure the e-bike chapter had range.

A different temple stop was Genko-an. The room looked like pure Kyoto calm: tatami, garden views, the round Window of Enlightenment, and the square Window of Confusion. Then the ceiling added the plot twist. Its boards came from Fushimi Castle, where Torii Mototada's defenders died during the 1600 siege before Sekigahara. Scholars estimate about 380 men died on the floorboards later installed in Kyoto temples as memorial ceilings. Calm room, extremely not-calm ceiling.

After the e-bike tour, lunch was at Nabura, recommended by the guide. It was phenomenal: ramen and fried chicken, with ramen as the clear highlight.

The group also stopped at Nintendo Store Kyoto, because Mario apparently needed to make the itinerary.

That night, Nick took the group to dinner for chicken skins, including chicken with cheese on skewers. It was a Sarah highlight, not the best meal of the trip, but still strong evidence in favor of cheese-based diplomacy. Then came karaoke.

Photos

Ashley standing among orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari.
Ashley in the torii gates, giving the camera what it came for.
Group selfie at Fushimi Inari.
Fushimi Inari group selfie, acquired before breakfast had fully become real.
Group photo on the steps at Fushimi Inari in Kyoto.
Fushimi Inari at sunrise pace, completed before the schedule could object.
Main shrine gate at Fushimi Inari in Kyoto.
The main gate, seen before the itinerary became a speedrun.
Group selfie under the torii gates at Fushimi Inari.
A slightly blurry victory lap under the torii gates.
Group photo under torii gates at Fushimi Inari.
The group, still early enough in the day to look refreshed.
Rows of orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari.
The gates, doing exactly what everyone hoped the gates would do.
Orange torii gate pathway at Fushimi Inari.
More torii gates, because restraint would have been weird here.
The group wearing helmets on the Kyoto e-bike tour.
E-bike tour crew, moments before volcano mode entered the vocabulary.
Group photo in front of decorative barrels during the Kyoto tour.
Another barrel wall, because Japan remained excellent at orderly displays.
Large shrine gate in Kyoto.
A Kyoto gate with enough detail to slow the speedrun for a second.
Bowl of ramen at Nabura in Kyoto.
Nabura ramen, doing the guide recommendation proud.
The group posing with a large Mario display at Nintendo Store Kyoto.
Nintendo Store Kyoto, where Mario became a required photo stop.
Wooden blood ceiling boards at Genko-an Temple in Kyoto.
Genko-an's blood ceiling: Fushimi Castle floorboards overhead.
Round Window of Enlightenment and square Window of Confusion at Genko-an Temple in Kyoto.
Genko-an's calm windows, before the ceiling story changes the room.